In which I am butcher
I cooked a rabbit! York recently had a food and drink festival. There was a beer tent and so many stalls of gooshy foods, both raw and cooked – venision burgers, baked goodies, deli stuff, pies, preserves and condiments and meat meat meat. I was mostly attracted to the meat – there was so much I had never even seen in my life! Partridge, grouse, pheasant, venision, veal, hares and RABBIT. While reading through all of Chez Pim earlier in the summer, I had come across a recipe for braised rabbit and it had stuck in my head. So when I saw entire rabbits for sale, I just couldn’t resist! I ended up with a rabbit, teeny tiny venision steaks, oxtail and rabbit liver (for the rabbit). The cooking of it kept getting pushed back for one reason after the other but today I finally got hold of the last of the ingredients and gave it a go! The results are beautiful. Rabbit isn’t as dreamy as venision but it’s still really really good! The disconcerting part was the butchering of it. I had naïvely thought that since it was all vacuum packed in a plastic wrap it would be all neutered and boneless like all meat in this country, but it turned out to be merely skinned and gutted! I had the onerous task of playing butcher to it. Yes, I snapped its bones with my hands and bathed in its blood. I am a relentless carnivore but this made even me feel a bit ambivalent. It occurred to me after I had done it how easy it is to kill a small, defenceless animal. I don’t think I’m going to turn vegetarian after this though, no chance of that, but I now have a better sense of how really disturbing it is to butcher an animal.
Braised rabbit
Ingredients
1 rabbit
3 to 4 rabbit livers
2 large onions
3 big cloves of garlic
Generous sprinkling of dried rosemary or 2 sprigs of fresh
2 big bay leaves or 4 small
Olive oil
500 ml red wine
250 ml stock
Tub of green olives or half a bottle
Directions
If your rabbit is pre butchered then all well and good, otherwise chop it up into 7/8 pieces. Reserve the liver. You will need additional liver but it’s always good to bulk it up.
Chop up the onions and garlic.
In a big dutch oven, heat a generous measure of olive oil and sauté the onions, garlic, bay leaves and rosemary along with the rabbit until it turns from red to brown.
Deglaze the pan with red wine.
Add the stock.
Add the livers.
Let this simmer away for about 45 minutes with the lid on. At the end of this time, add the olives and let simmer for another 15 minutes.
Serve with mash or crusty bread!




